Cycling Routes in Nice — 6 of Our Favourites

The usual associations with cycling are less than chic - brightly coloured lycra, padded shorts and helmets don’t help the image for a start. But you don’t need all the kit for this bike ride (although a helmet is never a bad idea). Granted, it is long, but it is as flat as the proverbial crepe and follows a designated cycle path for the vast majority of the route. You could manage it on pretty much any bike, which you can hire from a number of shops in Nice, and the wearing of lycra is entirely up to you.

Starting out from the Promenade des Anglais we headed along the green cycle path in the direction of the airport, the path is entirely separate from the road so you don’t have to battle with the traffic. In no time at all you’ll be passing through the pretty villages of Cagnes-Sur-Mer and Villeneuve-Loubet in the Baie des Anges.

The cycle path continues all the way up to the port of Villeneuve-Loubet, where it mysteriously disappears. We continued through the port where the only options were cycling on the pedestrian path or going the wrong way along a one-way road - we opted for the cycle path and got told off. Afterwards we could see from the map that we could have avoided the whole debacle by turning right just before the port onto Avenue de la Batterie.

Anyhow, lesson learned, once we came out of the port we picked up the cycle path again and continued along the Route du Bord de Mer until the Fort Carré came into view, signalling that we were nearly at Antibes. Coming into Antibes can be a bit confusing as the cycle path disappears in a few places and there are a couple of junctions to navigate but keep left and head in the direction of Port Vauban and you’ll be fine. Once you get into the old town there is a sharp left up a little incline where it might be easier to get off and push because a car is bound to come to a halt right in front of you and then you lose your momentum to get up the slope. Then it’s just a case of following the promenade past the Picasso museum and along the seafront. Once the promenade comes to an end you’ll find yourself on Avenue Marechal Leclerc, which will lead you around the Cap d’Antibes past some of the grandest houses on the Riviera. To refer to them as villas almost seems a bit flippant, some are more like mansions.

Immediately after leaving Antibes you come to the very chic town of Juan Les Pins, which is where we stopped for lunch. We chose Londinium on Boulevard Edouard Baudoin for no other reason than it was shady, had a nice sea view and the terrace had plenty of space for our bikes. The owner welcomed us effusively and promised that no “voleurs” would get their mitts on our bikes while he was on duty. We settled in with a glass of ice cold rosé and enjoyed a very nice lunch of goats cheese salad followed by a Café Gourmand (espresso coffee with a selection of mini-desserts). This was definitely turning into my kind of bike ride.

After a very leisurely lunch we climbed back in the saddle and pushed onwards; another long straight stretch took us along the coast line until we hit Cannes and joined La Croisette, the famous promenade that has been strolled upon by all the big stars of the silver screen. We passed by the Palais des Festivals and stopped for a quick photo on the red carpet, as you do, before continuing on to Theoule-Sur-Mer.

The stretch of road in between Cannes and Theoule was the only part of the ride when I felt a bit at the mercy of the traffic. The cycle path didn’t exist along here and the road was quite narrow with no room for overtaking, which meant that everyone was driving very close and very impatiently. I can imagine it might be a bit hairy during the busiest periods of summer.

Theoule is a picturesque little beach resort with plenty of places to stop for something to eat or drink and lots of small beaches tucked in along the bay. There are a few nice hiking routes around here as well, if you want to stretch your legs.

We weren’t done yet though, our target was just a few more kilometres along the coastline and a few more metres above sea level. The climb from Theoule to Le Trayas isn’t steep by any means, but after 50-odd kilometres of flat it felt like a bit of a rude awakening. The views all along this bike ride are pretty special but this stretch really puts the cherry on the cake; the road climbs and twists around the mountainside, constantly giving different perspectives on the rugged landscape below. Red jagged cliffs and craggy coves make the scenery feel more like Spain than France, and the deep blue of the water stands out strikingly against the terracotta-coloured rocks.

There are any number of little beaches along the Route des Calanques and the Route des Escalles, you just have to look out for the little lay-bys beside the road. There is usually a wooden fence running alongside and wherever you see a gap in it there will be a little footpath or stairway leading down to the rocks, from which you can scramble down to the sea. We stopped just a few metres after a hotel called the Relais des Calanques, hoisted the bikes on to our shoulders and clambered down into a perfectly secluded little cove. The beaches in Le Trayas are not soft and sandy, but if you want warm rocks and crystal clear water then this is the place for you (swimming shoes with rubber soles are a good idea for protecting your feet from the rocks). The coastline is so irregular that the sea forms into lots of little lagoons, each one feeling like your own private beach.

“Our” beach was just a few minutes ride from the train station, so after an hour or so of bobbing about in the salty water and snoozing on the rocks we were able to head back to Nice on the train coming from Marseilles. Look out for the special “velo” carriages where you can suspend your bike from hooks on the ceiling. The journey back to Nice central took just under an hour and cost 8,60€.

All in all, our bike ride was a smidge over 60km and took us a very leisurely 5 hours, including about an hour for lunch. If you wanted to make it shorter then you could stop at any of the places named above along the way, they are all on the same train line and are all well worth an afternoon’s visit. Now then, I wonder if Chanel make cycling helmets…?

From here you pass through the busy part of Cagnes-Sur-Mer centre following signs for Vence and the M336, there’s always a lot of traffic around the railway bridge but after that the road opens out and there’s a designated cycle path.

Once you’ve cleared the town centre the road starts climbing, Vence sits at an elevation of 325m and you’re starting from sea level so it’s not a huge ascent. The climb up is quite short and once Vence comes into view on your left you’ll see that you’re already almost level with it. If you want to explore the old town then follow the brown signposts for Cité Historique, where you’ll discover plenty of medieval buildings, ancient streets and pretty squares. Vence is also quite a modern town with a lively centre, so if you need to stock up on any supplies for the ride then you’ll find plenty of shops here. There are also a lot of nice cafés and restaurants, so it makes a good lunch stop on the way back.

Once you’ve noodled round Vence for a bit, leave the village via the north exit of Place Marechal Juin (Avenue Tuby) and take the Avenue Henri Girauld, signposted for the Col de Vence.

From here it’s onwards and upwards! The first sign you see for the Col is an information panel telling you how many kilometres away it is and how many metres to the summit - these panels are at every kilometre and are a handy way of tracking your progress. They also become instruments of torture when you get higher up and they seem to be spaced further and further apart, sometimes it’s best to take the ignorance is bliss approach and not look out for them. They’re also a handy reminder to stay hydrated - I make sure I take a big glug of water as I pass each one, just to make sure I’m drinking enough. Sip plenty in between as well if you feel the need, halfway up a remote col is not the place to start feeling faint.

The road up to the col is very exposed with no shade at all for about the last 9km; wear sunscreen and make sure you’ve got some decent sunglasses.

The gradient is about 6.5-7% for most of the climb; not mega-steep but enough to get everything pumping. The killer is that it is constant, there are no flat bits at all just slow gradual climbing with no relief for a good 8-9km. The landscape is amazing though, so keep your head up and let the incredible scenery distract you as mountain after mountain stretches out into the distance.

Once you reach the col you can take the obligatory “bike by summit sign” photo and stop for a breather as you take in the wonderful view. Bizarrely there is a quite unexpected refreshment stop up here - the Ranch El Bronco. The ranch is a small horse trekking centre that has a little drinks bar and a shady terrace, where cyclists are welcome to take a break.

Another thing that might take you by surprise is the occasional free range cow; they don’t seem to be penned in up here so they are sometimes hanging out beside the road and wandering back and forth across it. They are massive with great big horns, which means that they get right of way.

Even more intriguing is the fact that the Col de Vence is apparently a notorious spot for UFO sightings - check out this website if you want to know more about alleged alien activity in the area. The truth is out there.

What with remote ranches, UFO sightings and marauding cattle, the Col de Vence is more like an unlikely outpost of the wild west than a scenic route near the French Riviera.

The descent is glorious and the long haul to get to the top is soon forgotten as you fly down the sinuous bends. The road surface is in excellent condition, not a crack or pot hole the entire way. It is also so quiet up here that you almost have it to yourself, you don’t need to worry about hoards of traffic at all. You’ll be back in Vence in no time, wishing that some sort of weird phenomenon could make the descent twice as long as the ascent - it’s over far too quickly!

If your mission is all about bagging the col then consider it accomplished and return home via the way we came, which is the most direct route. If however, you want to see a bit more of the area and visit a couple more villages then head back through Vence and follow signs for Saint-Paul at the main junction and take the D2 all the way there.

A short caper along a pleasant tree-lined road and you’ll find yourself at  the entrance to Saint Paul de Vence. If you turn left at the pharmacy you’ll come to the entrance to the village where there’s a beautiful big square lined with olive trees where all the locals gather to play boules - they’re used to being gawped at by fascinated tourists and you may even be invited to join in a game. If you’d rather just spectate then there’s a nice bar with a long terrace that runs along the length of the square. The village itself is well worth a visit, you can walk around the ramparts and admire the panoramic views or enter into the maze of tiny streets that makes up the village centre. The village is known for it’s many galleries and art shops, so if you’ve got gifts to buy then this is the ideal place.

From Saint Paul de Vence it is easy to find your way along the D7 to La Colle Sur Loup, a quaint little village that is known for its antiques shops. It’s far less touristy than Saint Paul, so it’s a good option if you just want a quiet coffee and a leisurely stroll.

From La Colle Sur Loup you continue along the D436 back to Cagnes-Sur-Mer, which will bring you back to the town centre. Be sure to follow signs for CAGNES and not CANNES, or you will end up way off track.

The return through Cagnes-Sur-Mer is slightly different due to ring-roads and one-way systems but just follow signs for Nice, Saint Laurent du Var and Cagnes-Sur-Mer and you’ll be going the right way - do not head in the direction of Antibes or you’ll be going the opposite way.

Once you hit the seafront at Cagnes-Sur-Mer it’s plain sailing along the cycle path all the way back to Nice.

• DISTANCE: 66KM
• TOTAL ELEVATION: 1116M
• MAP: https://maps.google.com/maps?q=http:%2F%2Fwww.mapmyfitness.com%2Froutes%2Fkml%2F512606592%2F

Starting from Promenades des Anglais, head west in the direction of the airport and turn up towards Madeleine shortly after you pass the Magnan bus stop. This intersection can be a bit of a traffic nightmare so see the map for our sneaky shortcut that avoids the worst of it. Heading up Boulevard de la Madeleine can be a bit hairy but it doesn’t take long, you just have to stay alert for cars randomly pulling out or changing lanes without warning.

As soon as you’ve passed the last of the shops the road gets much quieter and you’ll soon find yourself cycling up amongst the forest. Wherever there is a gap in the trees you’ll see that you’ve already started to climb high above sea level and the mountains will come into view.

The first village you reach is Saint Roman de Bellet; it’s a sleepy little place which, although pretty, doesn’t have much of interest. Bellet is however, one of France’s oldest wine producing areas and you can visit the Vignobles de Bellet at certain times of the year to taste some of their produce. You’ll next pass through Colomars, the first of the perched villages on our route. Again, it isn’t the most happening place in the world but it is renowned for its olive oil - produced from the “cailletier” tree, specific to the region.

Continuing upwards towards the second perched village of Aspremont, the road becomes steeper as the higgledy-piggledy buildings come into view and you reach the highest point of the ride at 550m. Aspremont is the starting point for many hikes and you can also cycle from here up to another perched village called Saint-Blaise; for our route however, you skirt round in front of the town hall and follow the signs for Tourrette-Levens.

The road from Aspremont to Tourrette-Levens is an absolute peach - smooth as a velodrome track and once you hit the descent it widens out nicely so that traffic has plenty of space to pass safely. The road twists and turns in wide arcs, allowing you to swoop round corners without losing speed - we like swooping.

Of all the villages on this route, Tourrette-Levens is the one most worth stopping for an explore. When you enter the village you are greeted by the sight of the Baroque church of Sainte-Rosalie, opposite which there is a pleasant square with benches and a drinking fountain - a lovely spot for a picnic lunch and water refill. There is also a small friendly restaurant with a few tables outside if you fancy a bit of local cuisine. It’s worth mentioning that none of these villages are very touristy, which adds to their charm but means that they keep very traditional hours. If you want to stop at a café or restaurant then they will probably only have the kitchen open from midday to 3pm. If you want to pick up supplies from a shop then they’ll probably be closed for lunch during the same hours - it’s usually easier to take sandwiches.

If you continue past the church you’ll come to the old town where a steep cobbled street leads you up to the 12th century castle ruins. You’ll also pass a couple of museums charting the village’s prehistoric history and ye olde traditional crafts and farming methods. The natural history museum apparently has a collection of 4,500 butterflies and insects, if that’s what floats your boat. All attractions have limited opening hours of 14:00-18:00, so if you have a particular interest in visiting any of them then you should plan your route to coincide.

You’ll need to double back to leave the village from the same road that you entered and continue along the M19 to our final perched village of Falicon, passing through the rugged rocks of the Gorges de Gabres. While you’re unlikely to suffer a blow to the bonce, rock falls are not uncommon so keep an eye on the road for possible debris that could puncture a tyre. Falicon is another charming medieval eyrie that holds an eagle’s nest vantage over the valley. If you continue up to the very top of the village you’ll find yourself at a viewpoint that has fantastic vistas across olive groves, farmland, hills and villages all the way to the big blue sea beyond.

From here you cruise downhill in the direction of Saint André de la Roche before climbing back up towards Aspremont. From Aspremont continue back through Saint Roman de Bellet along the same route as earlier, however instead of turning off left to return via the Chemin du Genié continue along the Route de Bellet towards Ventabrun. This road has more traffic on it than the road you took to get up here and the surface is a bit rougher, but the views on the descent more than make up for it. As the road weaves down through the villages the bay of Nice comes into view, sparkling enticingly in the distance. Flowers spill over garden walls, olive trees line the roads, and all the while the cobalt blue of the Mediterranean gets closer and closer.

Eventually you’ll come out onto Boulevard Carlone, turn left at the traffic lights and you’ll find yourself back where you started at the Madeleine intersection. Throw a right and follow the traffic under the railway bridge and you’ll pop out at the Promenade des Anglais. Et voila, time for an ice cream.

• DISTANCE: 60KM
• TOTAL ELEVATION: 1500M
• MAP & INFO: https://maps.google.com/maps?q=http:%2F%2Fwww.mapmyfitness.com%2Froutes%2Fkml%2F505746012%2F

Starting at Riquier train station, turn left under the railway bridge onto Boulevard de l’Armée des Alpes. Continue for about 4 blocks then turn right at the next junction after the Total garage, it’ll be signposted for “Grande Corniche” and Observatoire de Nice”.

From this point you leave the traffic of Nice behind and start climbing up above the city; it’s a steady climb for about another 13km with the highest point being 535m.

The views as you climb are just fantastic; the first few kilometres see Nice dropping away over your left shoulder until it’s like a toy town beside the sea, then you head into a forested area where now and then you get glimpses through the trees into the Vallée du Paillon and the hills beyond. Once you’ve passed the Observatoire the road opens out and every twist and turn reveals stunning scenery of the undulating coastline meeting the deepest blue sea. This ride will definitely take longer than scheduled if you stop to take as many photos as we did.

Once you reach the Col d’Eze you can congratulate yourself on having done the hardest part at our favourite lunch stop, L’Auberge de la Croix du Pape, where you can dine like a king for under 20€! The food here is excellent, the terrace is beautiful and we’ve always had a very warm welcome from the owners; they offer a lunchtime menu of 3 courses for 19,90€ or 2 courses for 14,50€ (except Sundays) - 2 courses is plenty if you want any hope of getting back on the bike.

Our next stop is La Turbie, an ancient town with a history that can be traced back as far as the Romans. The enormous tower that you’ll see long before you reach the town is the Trophée des Alpes, or the Trophy of Augustus, a Roman relic from 6BC. Just after you pass the entrance to the old part of La Turbie there is a small turnoff that leads to a viewing point - from here you can see the port of Monaco in all its glory.

From La Turbie it is blessedly all downhill, the roads are in pretty good condition and there are few junctions, so you can pick up some speed as you whizz round the smooth mountain bends. At around the 25km mark you’ll see a turnoff to the left where you can opt to take a small detour to the medieval village of Roquebrune Cap Martin - if you look up you’ll see the ancient chateau dominating the hillside with the village nestled beneath.

Shortly after the turnoff you’ll come to a junction and a set of traffic lights, turn left in the direction of Menton and continue along Avenue de Verdun until you come to a roundabout by an Esso garage. Turn right here and follow signs for “Les Plages” until you arrive at the seafront of Cap Martin, where you’ll turn left and see the promenade stretching out in front of you all the way to Menton. There is plenty to see in Menton and loads of lovely places to stop for a drink, so consider taking a bike chain in case you want to explore a bit.

After such a delicious lunch and a long lazy descent down to the beach it would be torture to kick the legs back into gear at this point, which is why we’re kindly offering you two easier returns options. You’re welcome.

If you want to take the easiest possible route then simply about-face and head back along the coast, following signs for Nice. You’ll enjoy a whistle-stop tour of all the beach resorts along the way and it is mostly pretty flat. There will be heavier traffic though and lots more junctions to slow you down, so this is definitely the more leisurely option.

If you still have a bit of climb left in your legs then head back via Cap Martin and take the D6007 after the peninsula, this is known as the Moyenne Corniche and is the road that runs in between the Grande Corniche and the coast road. It’ll have more traffic than the Grande Corniche but not so much as down at the coast. There’s still a fair old climb involved but once you’re past Eze Village it’s plain sailing all the way back to Nice via the port.

We love this ride for many reasons and we’re not alone, you’ll see many fellow cyclists out on the corniches at all times of the year.

• DISTANCE: 60KM
• TOTAL ELEVATION: 1597M

• Map: https://maps.google.com/maps?q=http:%2F%2Fwww.mapmyfitness.com%2Froutes%2Fkml%2F506863242%2F

Starting from Nice Riquier train station, head north onto the busy Boulevard de l’Armée des Alpes before turning right onto the improbably named Boulevard Bischoffsheim. Once you’ve got your tongue around the bizarre road names you can focus on pushing your way up the “warm-up” climb towards the observatoire.

Within 6km you’ll have gained your first col! The Col des Quatre Chemins, at the giddy altitude of 329m - I did mention that this is only the warm-up… The col sits at an intersection from where you can turn left, right or continue straight on. Carry on for just a few metres and take the next left after the derelict house to begin the climb up the ancient Roman road of Chemin de Lauze.

This is a quiet residential road lined with shady trees and overgrown flowers. The road surface is pretty good, only getting gravelly towards the top. The gradient quickly gets rather steep and the last few hundred yards over potholes and stones are a bit of a struggle (they were for me, anyway).

Once you get past the houses you’ll have reached the Plateau de la Justice, where the route flattens out into a beautiful mountain road with breathtaking views of the medieval village of Eze and the bay beyond. At least it would have done if we hadn’t been surrounded by cloud but we could see just enough to know that on a clear day this view is a stunner.

Cruising along this section is bliss; flowers everywhere, spectacular scenery, supersmooth asphalt and practically no traffic whatsoever. I imagine it may be a little busier during peak summer months (as well as blisteringly hot) but it will certainly be off the beaten track of most of the tourist traffic.

From here is it a pleasant descent back down to rejoin the Grande Corniche just in time to tick Col d’Eze off the list - which feels like a piece of cake compared to what you’ve just climbed. Take a left at the first road you come to on entering the village and start climbing again up Route de la Revere.

A steady incline brings you to the Parc Naturel Départemental de la Grande Corniche, a gorgeous scenic ride with some very hairy drops off the edge of the route - my other half was actually glad of the heavy cloud as it shielded him from the view of what the fall would be like if it all went wrong… The road through the park is asphalt and well-kept but some parts are a bit rough, so if you’ve pumped your tyres to the max you might want to walk some parts to avoid the possibility of a puncture. Some routes through the park (including the road that we took back down) may be closed at certain times of the year so check before you go, to avoid having to find another road.

The descent is, admittedly, a bit sketchy. You’ll come to a fork where the signs point to a hiking trail for La Turbie on the left or the D2564 on the right. Take the right turn down a narrow road, strewn with stones, tight bends and signs warning of potential rockfalls. It’s not nice but it doesn’t last long and then you’re on the civilised asphalt of the Grande Corniche once more. Head right towards Eze Village and look out for a left turn towards Villefranche-Sur-Mer, Eze-Sur-Mer and Beaulieu-Sur-Mer; if your translation skills are up to scratch then you’ll soon surmise that we are heading towards the sea.

A smooth descent brings you to the gaudy riot of pink and ochre that is Villefranche with it’s cascades of bougainvillea spilling over brightly coloured villas. From here it is an easy cruise, albeit weaving through the coastal traffic, along the coastline back to Nice via Boulevard Maeterlinck and past the rocky splendour of Coco Beach.

Distance: 30km
Elevation gain: 1025m
Highest point: 680m

The Col de la Madone is one of the most famous climbs in the Alpes-Maritimes, used as a benchmark for many Tour de France athletes as to how they would perform on the hardest stages of the tour. I’m not sure if this is supposed to motivate or scare you but I can confirm that you don’t need to be a world class cyclist to reach the famous summit!

There are a number of starting points but we set off from the seafront at Menton, turning north-west at the outdoor swimming pool and up Route de Gorbio. Start off by following signs to Gorbio through the town centre and then pick up signs for Sainte-Agnes as soon as you see them. Once you’re on the road to Sainte-Agnes you’ll see green and while cycling signs for the Col de la Madone.

There is no easy warm-up on this ride, you start climbing straight away and you don’t stop until you reach the col. No flat or downhill bits to catch your breath, just up and up and up. Fortunately the scenery is stunning and the road surface is exceptionally good; there is also very little traffic other than fellow cyclists.

As the road winds round the mountains you get alternating views of the sea dropping away beneath you and the medieval village of Sainte-Agnes perched on a mountainside above you. This quirky little place holds the title of “highest coastal village in Europe” - it may be a few kms inland but it qualifies due to the fact that you can still see the sea from its elevated position at almost 800m.

On reaching Sainte-Agnes take a hard left and continue up in the direction of Peille. I was under the impression that we were nearly there by this point and started to congratulate myself on not finding it as hard as I expected. I breezed along the next stretch thinking that it was actually a bit of a cruise and we would probably see the col around the next bend.

However, this is the part when you have to remind yourself that there’s probably a reason why even Lance Armstrong says it’s quite hard. It suddenly gets really steep. And carries on being really steep. For quite a long time.

Another thing to mention about this route is that there is barely any shade the whole way, and it can get a bit sunny in the South of France. By this point I was wilting under the strong rays of the sun and the intense heat that was coming up off the asphalt and being radiated off the white limestone rocks that tower over one side of the road. Apparently the view from up here is absolutely marvellous but I couldn’t see an awful lot through my veil of sweat and tears.

Finally, we rounded the final bend and made it up to the col; a glorious wide open plateau with sweet cool breezes and majestic views of the mountain ranges disappearing into the distance. After a breather and a few photos we got back on our bikes and started the descent to Peille, never have I been so happy to be going downhill.

The descent to Peille is a delight, not only because it is not an ascent (unless you’re coming from the other direction obviously) but because of the fantastic views and colourful flora that line the road. This side of the col is far less steep than the other, making the ride down a pleasant freewheeling cruise that passes a number of small pretty villages. If you’re planning to stop en route then I recommend Peille, a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets with lots of historic architecture and a friendly atmosphere.

After Peille you continue along the D21 past Cantaron and Drap, both nice towns if you want somewhere to stop for a quick break. Once you get past Drap you’ll notice the traffic becoming heavier and this culminates in the chaos that is La Trinité, getting busier and busier as you approach Nice. This route will bring you on to the Avenue Joseph Raybaud, from where you can choose whether to head back to where you started at Riquier or continue south to the seafront; there are a couple of intersections where you may find it safer to dismount and use the pedestrian crossings.

Distance: 45km
Elevation gain: 1600m
Highest point: 937m